For the past 6 or so years I’ve been living my house. It’s nothing special but it’s definitely home for me. It’s a bit of a climbing and social HQ. Nice fingerboard, good speakers, reliable kettle and my old desk... I never thought I was that attached to this house until recently. There’s been a bit of an damp problem for the last couple of years and 6 weeks ago it was time to get it sorted out. So I moved across the way (literally 10 steps out my front door) into
the house that is the exact mirror image of my house. For the last 6 weeks I’ve done pirouettes in the kitchen every morning trying to find the kettle, trained on some duff rock rings that I everyone keeps bumping their head on and felt generally unorganised. It’s been weird. But now it’s time to move back!
Climbing on rock has been severely curtailed by the big move. Although I did manage three brilliant days in the Mournes.
The 1st day was business not pleasure. But a lot of pleasure too. I mainly work on the ropes but sometimes work for me can be a completely difference adventure. This day Craigy and I were doing a filming shoot for an advertising company who were making a Tourist Board advert for Northern Ireland. They wanted some footage of climbers in the Mournes and so we suggest Binnian. We later found out that we were to get there via helicopter!!!!! It was the first time I’d arrived at the North Tor of Binnian in under 5 mins! It normally takes me an hour followed by an hour of trying to summon the energy to put on my harness. It was surreal to just hop out have a coffee with the director and casually walk around the beautiful rocks. The rest of the crew were a bit late to arrive so Craigy and I satched up a few routes before starting work.
Eazy Now E5 6b
We got an amazing day for it. I meet some class people, learnt a bit about filming, climbed about 6 routes and got to do some wonder cheesy high-fives with Craigy! I just saw the finished piece on TV the other d
ay and they didn’t use any of our high-fives. Gutted...
The 2nd day was meant to be pleasure. It sort off was, but it was freezing! About seven of us went to Buzzards Roost for a day craging. Great idea..... Big crag...not much sun.... northerly winds... late September. Not all of us climbed...I tired a new line to the left of Divided Years while Swaily and Captain Onsight climbed War Music E5.
Everybody fell off... even Captain Onsight...It was freezing.
The meat of my line was a bouldery run out getting progressively harder with the crux leaving some crimpy undercuts and matching this slopey arete with your right foot smeared in this awkwardly shaped wee pocket. It’s right beside Divided Years on that prow and has a pretty safe fall from the crux. I tried it a few times but every time I got there I couldn’t put my right foot accurately into the pocket. My right foot was starting to fell more like a piece of wood and the fall was starting to get scary.
Taking a fall of The Peace Line and talking beta/karate with Captain Onsight
The 3rd day was business and pleasure. I went back to The Roost. We got there super early and the sun was still on the crag. Conditions were perfect. Crisp with no wind and crag looked amazing. I topped out.
The Peace Line *** 55m E7/8 6c
R.Bell, M.O’loughlin, H.Fogg (Headpoint) 26/9/10
Bouldery climbing in a spectacular position. Follow the start of Divided Years and onto the big ledge out left at half height. Continue up the groove above to a small roof and good cams. A long bouldery section leads via the short arete to the finishing jugs of Divided Years.
The Peace Line
Work has been less glamourous this week...